Nova Scotia
I have traveled extensively across Canada from coast to coast and lived in many regions of Canada ranging from the lower mainland in British Columbia to the Okanagan Valley to the prairies of Saskatchewan and Alberta and out to Quebec. I have never really found any place that has that feeling of home and that sense of meaning and belonging, as much as Nova Scotia. Interestingly enough, it is a place I have only visited briefly over the course of my life, but it leaves a lasting impression.
It is difficult for me to explain how I can feel so connected to a place I barely know. How can I feel a sense of yearning to a place that I have not had much previous interaction with? Was there some kind of spiritual connection? Was there a sense of reincarnation of a previous life in this place? How did I feel so grounded and at ease here? I almost felt like I knew this place from another time through different eyes.
The Margaretsville Captain's House
After over 5,000 km through eight provinces and six days of driving, we pulled into the driveway of our AirBnB in Margaretsville, Nova Scotia! We were so very happy to be done traveling for a while, so much so the thought that two weeks of self-isolation didn’t really seem like too much of a punishment!
Margaretsville, a quaint little community with a population of 212 people, lies along the north shore of Nova Scotia overlooking the Bay of Fundy, recognized for the highest tides anywhere in the world.
The town is named for Margaret Inglis by her husband the Honourable Brenton Halliburton, 8th Chief Justice of Nova Scotia. One funny fact about this little community is that the spelling of "Margaretsville" varys from sign to sign; the local post office uses "Margaretsville" and a short walk down the block, the community hall, says "Margaretville" with no "s". Other signage is also inconsistent. I love the informality of it all! No one is overly concerned about it and the inconsistencies remain without anyone getting bent out of shape about it. In most jurisdictions, the masses would write letters, sign petitions and organize blockades to correct this injustice!
Our AirBnB rental, aptly named “the Captain's House”, had a prominent view overlooking the Bay of Fundy to the west. The house was built 150 years ago by a sea captain. She was a solid old house with a welcoming feel.
The house was charming, yet not fancy or hiding under fancy renovations. In my discussions with the owner, she was in the process of bringing back the character of the house to reflect its heritage. I really love seeing these old character homes being saved and preserved in a manner that reflects days gone by. There were so many interesting details to observe in the house and with two weeks of self isolation ahead, we had all the time we needed to really take them in!
Throughout our two weeks in the house, we were extremely fortunate to have a large yard to enjoy that included an old-fashioned tree swing. We spent many days basking outside under the large horse chestnut tree. It was an inspiring place for me to sit and do some writing.
We took advantage of the many board games available in the house as well as the famed ping pong table in the back room of the house. We spent “many” hours in that back room and engaged in some really heated ping pong battles!
We were also extremely fortunate to have incredible neighbours. As we were housebound for a full two full weeks, our immediate neighbours kindly delivered our groceries and picked up packages from the post office for us. We got to know them through our “over the fence” conversations during the course of our stay at the Captain’s House, (there was no fence; however, we ensured that we stayed on our side of the property limit and distanced accordingly to maintain local self isolation requirements). It definitely made our time at the house more enjoyable. They were such lovely, generous people!
An ice cream shop was situated across the street, which made it torcherous for us to sit and watch people getting ice cream during the day. We would just sit and watch people come and go from the ice cream shop! The day we were allowed to leave the property, the first thing we did was buy ourselves some ice cream!
Beachcombing Near Margaretsville
Margaretsville and East Margaretsville were our bases for the duration of our stay in Nova Scotia. We picked this area simply as somewhere off the beaten path and a great location to explore the north shore, the Annapolis Valley and some inland areas of Nova Scotia we hadn’t been able to visit during our previous adventures around Nova Scotia.
I am always drawn to the sea when I visit the maritimes. There is something soothing about walking along the shore that you just can’t find elsewhere. A peace and tranquillity comes over me and the stress and worries just melt away and for some reason it makes me want to sing, an unfortunate experience for those around me!
We were very excited to get down to the shore after only being able to view the Bay through the windows of the Captain’s House for two whole weeks. The first chance we had, we made our way down to the ocean.
The shores are roughed, windswept and endless around Margaretsville. A small lighthouse is perched on the rocky shore from days gone by when Margaretsville was a busy port in the early 1900s.
If you pay attention, you can even make out the wooden remnants of the old pier that once extended far into the tidal zone of the Bay of Fundy.
We looked forward to our morning walks on the beach while staying in Margaretsville. The air was refreshing and cool and it was an amazing place to just unwind, relax and take it all in. We spotted some impressive massive pieces of driftwood along the shore and one piece that had been hand hewn with an axe and had a rusty metal support attached - Was this from an old ship? Part of an old building? How old was this piece? So many questions...it was a lot of fun to just speculate on the history and journey of some of the pieces we discovered.
We also came upon a make-shift shelter/fort that someone had built on the beach as well as random smooth stones with intricate little pictures and messages painted on them (we left everything in its place).
Awareness and care is required when walking/swimming along these shores due to the constant and extreme changes in the tide. Even spending an hour walking along the beach, you have to be careful to not get caught or trapped by the tides when wandering along the shoreline.
Arie’s Acres
We were ever so fortuate during our stay at the Captain’s House to connect with wonderful people and secure a place for us to park the Jeep and set up camp in East Margaretsville. Our new temporary base included an inspiring view of the Bay of Fundy set in a meadow of grass and wildflowers near a big old hip roof barn - the perfect tenting spot for Mikhail and I for the remainder of our stay in Nova Scotia!
We were introduced to Arie, the owner of this beautiful property, through our neighbours, at the Captain’s House. She was generous, friendly and had a genuine interest in our trip and our adventures.
The photo to the right depicts the Nova Scotian Coat of Arms, a symbol of the province's unity and strength, the blue, white and gold along with the red lion are portrayed on Nova Scotia's Provincial flag that also reflects the coat of arms of Nova Scotia. The coat of arms dates back to 1625 when it was granted to the Scotish Colony by King Charles I.
We sincerely enjoyed our time on the property and frequent visits with Arie and her black, miniature Poodle named Henry. We spent many hours chatting with Arie. Mikhail took a liking to Henry and they often enjoyed running around the yard together chasing each other and playing games.
Mikhail and I helped out with a few projects around the place including setting up a gazebo, assembling some furniture and helping out with a few other random chores which was the least we could do for being allowed to stay on the property.
We would spend our days exploring the Annapolis Valley, the small coastal towns along the Bay of Fundy, inland forested areas as well as travels out to Annapolis Royal, Digby and down the Digby Neck. At the end of the day, we would come back to Arie’s and set up camp, prepare some supper and enjoy the beautiful evening with dramatic sunsets over the Bay of Fundy and quite often chat with Arie before heading to bed for the night.
One of my favorite morning routines during our time at Arie’s was to quietly climb down from the tent, brew some coffee and relax in my Helinox lawn chair while enjoying the abundance of birds and the beautiful view out over the Bay of Fundy.
It is likely the most vivid memory from our trip and one I cherish - the peace and tranquility this brought me and how it helped to sooth my soul, is hard to explain in words.
Near where we set up our camp at Arie’s place, stood a larger, dead apple tree. It was a sad, lonely old tree that would have been standing at that location for many years; a reminder of times gone by. I envisioned that it was part of a larger apple orchard at one time and part of a bustling farm yard. I can only imagine what that tree has seen over the years.
As part of the gear for our trip, we had brought a Helko Werk double bit axe with us to cut firewood and kindling. We offered to cut this tree down for Arie and she gave Mikhail the go-ahead to take the tree down. I would have loved to save the wood from this tree for a woodworking project, but alas, even if we cut the tree down, we had no extra room to take back any pieces of wood.
Mikhail took this task very seriously and got right to work. Mikhail thought this old tree would give in easy and fall with several hard swings; however, after quite a few swings at that tree, he barely made a dent in it! I thought to myself, you aren’t trying hard enough, at which point I took a few swings.
That old tree was a tough one! The hardest wood I had cut into - seasoned and dry, yet not at all rotten, this tree was putting up a good fight to stay vertical. Now you might say, your axe is dull, but it was sharp. Mikhail chopped on that tree each evening after supper. He chopped and he chopped, until he got blisters, I even chopped...but in the end, the tree won the battle.
On the day we were leaving, we had to give Arie the bad news we were unsuccessful in our final task as we had run out of time. He got a bit more than halfway through that old tree, I suspect that it could stand that was another 20 years before it finally falls.
We are planning to get back there and finish the job someday!
Mystery at Sandy Cove Beach
One day toward the end of our trip, we planned a day trip from Margaretsville to Annapolis Royal to Digby and over to Sandy Cove Beach. Sandy Cove Beach is located approximately 35 km or a half hour drive to the southwest from Digby, Nova Scotia on a narrow stretch of land referred to as the “Digby Neck”. We had never driven down the Digby Neck before and were looking forward to a new adventure and seeing some new scenery.
We had a quick picnic lunch in Digby and then proceeded southwest toward Sandy Cove. It was a scenic drive, as most drives are in Nova Scotia with dramatic elevation changes across the narrowed section that extended beyond Digby.
We parked at the top of the bluff in the parking area at Sandy Cove and navigated the path down to the beach. As we made our way down to the path to the beach, we came across a plaque that told the story of a mysterious man. This man was discovered on Sandy Beach on September 8, 1863. He was found on the beach suffering from exposure with both legs amputated above the knee. There was evidence the amputation was completed by a skilled surgeon and was only partially healed when he was found.
He did not appear to speak english and when asked his name, he mumbled something that resembled "Jerome" and thus, this became the name that people addressed him by as no one had a better guess as to what his name might be.
Jerome never spoke or communicated to anyone where he was from or why he was discovered on the beach with his legs amputated - a very odd, tragic predicament. He moved from house to house through the local communities over the years until the Government of Nova Scotia approved a stipend of $2 a week to support him.
He died in April of 1912 without telling anyone the circumstances of why or how he had turned up on Sandy Cove Beach that fateful day in September of 1863. A story shrouded in mystery for sure!
We continued our way down the path to the beach and Mikhail immediately went to the water and played in the surf - that water was VERY cold, which probably explains why Mikhail was the only one swimming that day! As I sat on the beach watching Mikhail play in the surf, I was drawn to the unique nature of the colors, shapes and sizes of the sand and pebbles on the beach. The colour variations were extremely unique and eye-catching and ranged from purple, to green to orange and blue, not something I typically noticed on most beaches. I took quite a few photos of the sand that day - random and beautiful!
Several other groups were sparsely distributed throughout the cove but it still felt like we were all alone on that beach. Later we played in the sand and enjoyed some snacks while taking in the beauty of an oceanside afternoon. Admittedly, the entire time we were at the beach, I struggled to shake the image out of my head of Jerome lying on the beach missing his lower appendages!
McMaster Mill Historic Park & Crystal Falls
Situated just outside Greenwood, Nova Scotia is the McMaster Mill Historic Park. Just steps off the gravelled road lies the most beautiful stream and ruins from the former McMaster Mill.
The McMaster brothers, along with their families sailed over from Scotland to Nova Scotia around 1837 and in 1857 began purchasing the land and water rights to found the Rockville Company. The brothers built a mill and a dam on the site that spanned the river and built a self-sufficient community known as the "Notch" which became known as the community of Rockville Notch. This community generated its own electricity, shelter, food, transportation, fuel and entertainment.
The Rockville Company ceased operation in 2002 after 145 years of operation but left a legacy of community and proved an impressive example of the ingenuity to create a self-sustained community!
Mikhail and I spent a lot of time here exploring the ruins, hiking the waterfalls, chasing frogs and just enjoying the spectacular beauty. It was the perfect place to spend an afternoon. There is so much here that is missed upon first glance, it was worth some time to just soak it all in.
Every time I come upon a stream, creek or river, one of my favorite activities is walking along the water’s edge and exploring all the sights and sounds that accompany it. Hopping stone to stone, watching how the water interacts with the surrounding land and getting lost in the sound of the water babbling are very pleasing and relaxing for me. You will not find a more beautiful and breathtaking hidden gem than this one. We were there quite a few hours exploring and only saw one couple for a brief moment, otherwise we had the entire place to ourselves.
It would have been quite something to see the McMaster’s Mill at the height of its glory and witness the incredible feat the McMasters had accomplished. All that is left are some of the footings and foundations and the odd reminder of all that used to be as nature battles to reclaim the site.
Another must-see incredible nearby destination and a short drive and a hike down Harmony Road from McMaster Mill Historic Park lies "Crystal Falls".
Crystal Falls is aptly named for a waterfall located above a pond that is bordered by rocky cliffs. The falls lie at the end of a 3.7 km scenic hike that starts on Harmony Road and takes you to an amazing place and appears to be a gathering for locals and tourists alike.
The trail to the falls is poorly marked and it takes some guess work to get you there, but it's worth the effort.
We parked along Harmony Road and hiked toward the falls as we second guessed the hiking trail route to get there. A majority of the trail is fairly easy to traverse; however, there is a steeper downward portion with loose stones and dirt toward the end that some people may struggle with, be sure to wear decent shoes for hiking. We thankfully ended up choosing the right path and were not disappointed by the view one we got there.
During our visit, people were swimming and cliff diving into the pond. A hidden treasure of a spot to find after a short hike! Mikhail and I sat on the shore and enjoyed the beautiful spot, took some photos and explored the area further before heading back to Arie’s to set up camp.
Fort Anne National Historic Park
While passing through the community of Annapolis Royal, we visited Fort Anne National Historic Park. Annapolis Royal historically served the role of capital and military centre of Nova Scotia/Acadie with fortifications on this site recorded in the early 17th century. The fort was built to protect the harbour in Annapolis Royal.
Back in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, this area was the focus of European colonization, settlement and many conflicts between the various European powers and Indigenous peoples.
Fort Anne sits on a once heavily contested piece of land at the confluence of the Annapolis and Allain Rivers where early fortresses were erected by the Scots, with later versions being built by the French and English. This area also makes up part of the traditional homeland of the Mi’kmaq Indigeous peoples. The site was witness to 13 attacks, seven changes of hands and the ratification of the Treaty of Boston. Fort Anne became Canada's first National Historic Site in 1917.
A walk through the 15 hectare site reveals the remains of the Vauban-style French fort built between 1702 and 1708 (better viewed from above with its signature star-shaped appearance), the Officer’s Quarters Museum built in 1797, the parade square, many old cannon installations, and other ramparts and features overlooking the Annapolis River.
The site also contains the oldest building in the Parks Canada inventory, a Powder Magazine built by the French in 1708. It is also the only surviving building on the site from the French period. The vault-like stone building was designed to store munitions with incredibly thick walls to withstand strong blasts and sufficient ventilation to keep the stored gunpowder dry.
The site’s many trails allow park visitors to enjoy the beautiful grounds with mature trees and breathtaking views of the Annapolis River.
It was remarkable to observe the old cannons located at various locations throughout the Park with insignias of their country of origin and their monarch.
We spent a significant amount of time exploring the park and witnessing the many features of the fortifications, the cannons and the architectural features before heading back to East Margaretsville for the evening to catch a glorious sunset.
Stay tuned for Chapter 4!
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